The 2009 Cotes du Roussillon-Villages Les Vignes de Bila-Haut represents a tank-raised blend of Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah from gneiss and schist sites in various parts of the Agly Valley - to that extent like its earlier counterparts - but with the addition of fruit grown on granite in Lesquerde, thus preserving this cuvee's role as a collaboration across the estate's range of sites. Blueberry in fresh and distilled form; fennel and licorice; almond and cherry pit; crushed stone and peat entertain nose and palate, with glyceral richness helping to ameliorate the considerable grain of tannin, and leading to a finish of satisfying length, if not the energy and impeccable balance that characterized the 2007 rendition. This excellent value should drink well for at least the next 2-3 years. (Unfortunately, I was unable to taste the 2008, of which the domaine itself could not find a bottle.) Michel Chapoutier's Roussillon domaine - for further details on which, consult my report in issue 183 - has taken on considerable additional acreage since I filed that last report, resulting in among other things a fascinating white cuvee in what had previously been an all-red portfolio, and the inclusion of more fruit - in black as well as white - from spectacularly-situated high-elevation, granite-rich, late-ripening sites in Lesquerde, well to the west of Latour-de-France. Gilles Troullier continues to direct vinification as well as viticulture (here biodynamic) like the seasoned maestro that he is. With few exceptions, the wines sing with clarity, purity, and complexity, not to mention performing well above what on the basis of price (save for that of the "v.i.t." cuvee) would deceptively appear to be their station. (For Chapoutier's wines from Banyuls, see under his own name in this report, as that is how those are labeled.)Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456
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