A tank-raised blend of Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah from gneiss and schist sites in various parts of the Agly Valley, Chapoutier’s 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Les Vignes de Bila-Haut possesses an alluring aroma and lovely, deep richness of black raspberry, cherry, and roasted meat, augmented by toasted pecans, coriander, and resinous herbs. With rarified tannins and a vividly juicy fresh fruit presence, this represents an irresistible introduction to its genre for immediate enjoyment, yet the structure here is tightly-enough knit, the balance impeccable, the entire performance loaded with energy, so I see no reason to doubt that this amazing value will be a delight 2-3 years from now as well. Michel Chapoutier’s outpost in Roussillon – begun in 1993 and moved into its spacious current facilities in 2000 – operates under the immediate direction of exceptionally talented winemaker Gilles Troullier. With around 150 acres and more than 30 parcels of largely old vines under contract (including some exciting new material in 2008) this is a major source for some of the most carefully crafted wines and among the finest values in the region. It is also one of many French addresses where there has been a recent move in the direction of larger barrels (especially demi-muids) and to more sophisticated forms of concrete, and a corresponding de-emphasis of stainless steel tanks and (225-liter) barriques. Troullier opines that after six years of biodynamic regimen on these wines (which includes working many of the parcels by horse) there has recently been a “crescendo in quality.” Without hazarding an opinion on its causes, that crescendo certainly had my nose and palate ringing when I left here! For reviews of other Roussillon Chapoutier projects, please see under Agly Brothers as well as Chapoutier.Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456
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