The dark ruby 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is layered, but dominated by its kirsch liqueur notes intermixed with pepper and earth. The wine is expansive, beautifully textured, and tastes like a sweet cherry cocktail with plenty of structure and decent acidity. This is a beauty that should evolve for up to a decade or more. Proprietor Michel Maret makes classic Chateauneuf du Papes that drink well young yet have the ability to age for 10-15 years. His 1998s are just starting to hit their prime. I suspect 2004 will mature more quickly, but his 2005s will be very long-lived wines. The style emphasizes structure, loads of Provencal typicity and impressive purity and overall balance.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
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