Matured for fully 84 months in barrel, the 2004 Pouilly-Fuissé Le Clos de Monsieur Noly Reserve Vieilles Vignes is an extraordinary wine in a singular style that wafts from the glass with a complex bouquet of ripe peaches, honey, amontillado sherry, warm oatmeal and vanilla pod. Ample, full-bodied and textural on the palate, its considerable concentration and richness is underpinned by a bright and intensely mouthwatering line of acidity that lends this Pouilly-Fuissé amazing verve. The finish is stunningly long and sapid. Despite its somewhat oxidative flavors, the wine remains full of life, fruit and energy, and I expect it to be long-lived. There isn't really anything else like this being produced in the Maconnais today.