Domaine Cordier Pere et Fils Pouilly-Fuisse Vieilles Vignes, Maconnais, France

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Smoke-imbued minerals are found in the nose of the medium-bodied, highly concentrated, and immensely long 2004 Pouilly-Fuisse Vieilles Vignes. This silky-textured beauty is crammed with pears, pip fruits, butter, anise, nuts, and liquefied minerals whose effects linger for 25 seconds or more on the finish. Its personality displays a nugget of concentration that is reminiscent of the finest Cote de Beaune white Burgundies from 1995 in their youth. Projected maturity: now-2011. “This was a difficult vintage, no doubt,” said Christophe Cordier, “We never stopped working for an instant.” He went on to add that even though the July 20 hail storm devastated some of his best parcels (there is no Pouilly-Fuisse Metertiere in 2004, for example), “We were still luckier than our friends in the Cote de Beaune because here in the south we actually got some sun and warmth at times.” Cordier did two harvests in his Pouilly-Fuisse vineyards, declassifying the first fruit that was picked to make a Macon-Fuisse and only using the results of his second, later harvests for his Pouilly-Fuisses. In addition, Cordier sorted through all the clusters, throwing out all the ones damaged by hail or oidium.Various American importers including Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800