Remoissenet Pere & Fils, Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, France

雷穆父子酒莊（巴塔-蒙哈榭特級園）白葡萄酒

點擊次數：5061

From a parcel in the northerly "neck" of this appellation – more specifically, opposite the Montrachet of the Marquis de Laguiche – the Remoissenet 2007 Batard-Montrachet is purchased as must. Decadent lily, musky narcissus, heliotrope, and white peach on the nose lead to a satin-textured, soothing plate laden with liquid floral perfume, ripe peach, and crushed chalk. But just as you start to lay your head back, this kicks up an invigorating, vibratory fruit and mineral interchange such as characterize so many of the best wines of its vintage and ends up managing to leave the palate both soothed and refreshed. Like many a 2007 of exalted classification, I cannot see any reason to defer the pleasure of this now, although I imagine it should hold well for at least 6-8 years. Interestingly, despite the success of Bienvenues-Batard in many hands this vintage, the Remoissenet team elected out of dissatisfaction to sell off the wine of that appellation grown by the same vigneron as this Batard, a wine that had excelled for them in 2005 and 2006. The well-known if not always entirely venerable house of Remoissenet began a new life in 2005 when it was purchased by investors and wine lovers Edward and Howard Milstein of New York; merchant Todd Halpern of Toronto; and (with a minority share) Louis Jadot. The new owners installed Jadot veteran Bernard Repot as manager and Claudie Jobard as winemaker to oversee less a renovation of the facilities than the establishment from scratch of a new winery. With one major exception (Le Montrachet) the revived Remoissenet has depended on establishing new sources of supply, a project that – along with marketing – is being spearheaded by long-time Wine Advocate associate Pierre-Antoine Rovani. The emphasis will be on contract fruit or must – although Remoissenet still owns acreage of Pinot Noir vines in and around Beaune – and then very selectively. Remoissenet's substantial share of Montrachet alone offers them a unique opportunity not only to bargain with growers, but to establish a high market profile, and the quality of 2007s here – following on the heels of an impressively rich if occasionally overly woody and ponderous collection of 2006s – confirms this as a negociant to be reckoned with. The barrels used here, incidentally, are now split between 350 liter capacity and standard 225 liter barriques.Importers include The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460, Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392-6995.

The 2007 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru appears to be maturing well. It has a keen fresh bouquet with scents of white peach and wax resin, a subtle marine note emerging with aeration. It is well-defined but not overwhelming complex. Ditto the palate, which is crisp and focused with a cheeky touch of mint, but it just seems to dip before the finish line. Still, this is a Batard-Montrachet that I would be happy to find in my glass. Drink now-2020. In February, Pierre-Antoine Rovani and Bernard Repolt trekked over to London to present a range of both recent and older vintages for their UK importer, Averys. If anyone needed convincing that Remoissenet can truly deliver at the top level, then one needs go no further than the stupendous Charmes-Chambertin 2011 that is among the best I have encountered with respect to that vintage. Perhaps with such a large portfolio of crus, gems likes these can get lost in the flurry of reviews, but they can only serve to enhance their reputation among Burgundy cognoscenti. Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515, United Wine and Spirits, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 696-9463, D.G.L. Distributors, Northbrook, IL; tel. (847) 291- 1110, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460. Also available through Avery’s Wine Merchants in Bristol (UK).