Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany

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Richter’s 2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, from old vines in an especially stony location, offers site-typical aromas of apple, vanilla, and wet stones. I found it surprisingly spare on the palate, which Richter attributes to the wine’s low pH and its hard slate origins. The finish here though is impressively clear, vividly slate-paved, and laden with fresh, juicy ripe apple. For a pure, almost adamant expression of the essence of Wehlener Sonnenuhr, as well for a Kabinett worth cellaring for at least 6-8 years, this is an ideal candidate. Also recommended: 2005 Muhlheimer Sonnenlay Riesling “Zeppelin” ($16.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Classic ($18.00; 86), 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett feinherb ($26.00; 85+?), 2005 Riesling ($18.00; 85), 2005 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett ($25.00; 86+?). Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800