I had entertained high expectations for Chevillon's 1980 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles, and they were not disappointed. Mingling aromas of orange rind and plums with hints of candied peel, wilted rose petals and forest floor, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny, with bright acids and a precise, sapid finish. Drunk alongside Lafarge's Clos des Chênes, the Cailles was the fuller, more sensuous wine—typifying the bifurcation between the C?te de Nuits and the C?te de Beaune in the 1980 vintage.