Mikulski’s 2007 Meursault Poruzots – among his earliest-picked wines of the vintage – is scented with iris and fresh citrus; and combines citrus oil pungency and milled grain with overt chalkiness (like that of the Gouttes d’Or, practically palpable), resulting in a palpable extract-rich and overtly mineral personality. As has been the case with a number of Mikulski wines tasted from the last several vintages, this exhibits an overarching nutty, smoky piquancy that signals more oxidative development than in most young white Burgundies, but I hasten to add that this comment is not intended as a reflection of age-ability. Rather, there is an extra dimension of fascinating evolution here, side by side with a persistently juicy sense of sheer refreshment. The sweetness of ripe pit fruits emerges to accompany the wine’s stony and nutty undertones in a long finish. I anticipate this being worth following for at least 6-8 years.
Francois Mikulski began picking his 2007s the August 31 and harvest lasted a full two weeks. He performed “a bit more severe settling than normal” of solid matter to insure healthy musts, and while the vinous results are sometimes a bit texturally spare, as a group these wines boast consistently impressive distinctiveness of personality, energy, refreshment, and grip.
A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70
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