The 2014 Criots Batard Montrachet Haut Densité Grand Cru is limited to just one barrel this year. It has a very elegant rather than powerful bouquet, with touches of nutmeg and walnut, subtle and opting to remain in the background, with the mineral all up front. The palate is clean and fresh on the entry, just a touch of salinity, more backward than I recall the 2013 last year, and waiting until the finish to fan out with hints of ginger and even white fennel. It is a complex, captivating Criots from Oliver Lamy.
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