Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard, Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, France

楓丹甘露酒莊（克利特-巴塔-蒙哈榭特級園）白葡萄酒

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Dramatic and expressive, the 2018 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru exhibits aromas of orange rind, peach, honeyed pears and marzipan. Full-bodied, supple and textural, it's an enveloping but youthfully structured wine that will reward at least a couple of years of bottle age. Céline Gagnard told me that this site handled the hot conditions well.

Despite its warm mesoclimate, Céline Fontaine told me that the 2017 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru didn't suffer in the dry August weather. As usual, the wine is rich and dramatic, bursting with a musky bouquet of mandarin orange, honeycomb, citrus blossom and spices. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad and succulent, with an ample, textural attack but nice purity and delineation on the finish. The most precocious grand cru in the cellar, it will drink well out of the gates.

The 2016 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is down to two barrels from seven this year. Apparently the vines were acutely stressed by the frost. It has a slightly subdued nose at first, opening with chalk and crushed stone aromas. The palate is nicely balanced and saline in the mouth, although one can tell that the 2014 and 2015 had more drive and mineralité at its core. It is a fine Criots although I prefer some of the premier crus this year.

The 2015 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, which came in at around 13.5% alcohol, has a lovely nose with scents of lemon curd, apricot blossom and cold limestone, a touch of mango emerging with time. The palate is extremely well balanced with a fine line of acidity. There is energy and tension here, tightening up towards the finish but still persistent in the mouth. This has great potential, a reserved Criots that should spread its wings once in bottle.

The 2013 Criots Batard Montrachet Grand Cru has an intense and mineral bouquet that soars – touches of white peach and apricot blossom gently drifting from the glass, flecks of chalk and even white chocolate. The palate is fresh and vibrant, hints of white peach and brioche, oyster shell and citrus peel on the precise understated finish. This will be irresistible.