A blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre and 5% each Syrah and Vaccarese, the certified-organic 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape La Reine des Bois is surprisingly muscular, with concentrated black cherries, purple raspberries and plums backed by sturdy ribbons of silky tannin. Hints of mocha, roasted meat, and black olives provide a savory counterpoint to the abundant fruit, and the rich finish verges on chocolaty, with the textural suggestion of cocoa powder.