The 2009 REDOMA RESERVA Branco is from high altitude vineyards (400 to 800 meters) and old vines (60-80 years old) aged in French oak and on the lees for 9 months, without maloactic fermentation. It is a typical Douro white blend of grapes like Rabigato, Codega, Donzelinho, Viosinho and Arinto. The oak is obvious, but it is not that vanilla-drenched demeanor that wrecks so many wines, white in particular. It is there, and there is also a brooding, somewhat tight, perhaps even a little tannic, finish. This handles the oak well, though, and unless you are per se an oak-a-phobe, there shouldn’t be much to object to. Once past that, this is simply stunning, gripping, lingering, elegantly constructed, gracious and graceful. It is a very fine achievement in this or any vintage. To the extent I have a complaint with Niepoort’s Redomas, it is that they haven’t always seemed to me to have aged as well as I would have hoped. This gives every sign of holding well, but let’s see where this exceptional Branco goes. There were 10,200 bottles produced. Drink now-2014.
Niepoort is a reliable and often outstanding source in the Douro for old vines blends in both whites and reds, frequently comprising many different types of grapes, made in a very elegant style. The lineup is a bit pricey, its main flaw. The value points are usually found with the Vertente, Redoma Branco regular and Tiara, while the Redoma Tinto is often a good value for the upper level bottlings. The ‘09s certainly have to be another tribute to Niepoort’s skill as a white wine maker. Some people had issues with the ’09 whites. Niepoort didn’t miss a beat.
Importer: Martine’s Wines, Inc., Novato, CA.; tel: (415) 883-0400; except in New York/New Jersey: Eric Solomon, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565.
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