Lumpp's 2006 Givry Clos Jus – from a site bordering and similarly iron-rich to the better-known and justly well-reputed Cellier aux Moines – boasts sweet cherry and black raspberry fruit and a satisfying sense of amplitude for the vintage. While it harbors considerable tannin, its quality is mannerly. An invigoratingly saline finishing savor and meat stock richness along with subtly smoky piquancy lends this extra appeal and a sense of depth. Here is the one Lumpp bottling of the vintage that I could imagine wanting to follow for as long as half a dozen years. The 2001 – tasted alongside – was smoky, a bit rustic, and needing to be drunk, but still satisfyingly complex and rich.Francois Lumpp began harvesting already on September 13 and then took two weeks, with his date of picking, he ruefully reports, having been driven in each instance by the sanitary conditions of the grapes. These challenging conditions also dictated an especially gentle approach in the cellar, and the result is lighter-weight wines than usual here, but with their tannins in consequence largely well-mastered. Hectoliters per hectare yields were in the low 30s, where they had been in the low 40s in 2005. Interestingly, Lumpp didn't back off on his usual regimen of 65-70% new barrels. I would plan to enjoy these 2006s in their first several years.Various importers, including Vineyard Research, Lunenburg, MA; tel.(978) 582-7215, Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, and Alain Blanchon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (267) 474 6629
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