Boillot's 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is superb, and one of the highlights of the range this year, unfurling in the glass with notes of lemon oil, crisp green apple, struck flint and smoky reduction. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, stony and tensile, with considerable depth, concentration and chewy dry extract. It's indelibly marked by the site that produced it.