The 2006 “MONTE VELHO” BRANCO is a very good value. While it has none of the exuberance and pungent characteristics of the other good value whites listed here (the Verdelho and the Defesa), which you may find to be a good thing or not depending on your taste, it is a wine that is impeccably balanced, refreshing and simply charming. It has a surprisingly nice finish, plus reasonable depth. The flaw is that it will not last long at peak, but it’s lovely and a deal. The younger the better. Drink now-2008. Esporao is one of Alentejo’s iconic producers, with vast vineyards (some 650 hectares) that partly have some age on them (some vines are around thirty years old, considerable relative to the many young wineries in the region). It has some of the region’s most beautiful and atmospheric cellars. Its lineup tends to be value oriented, and the winery excels in producing nice wines for little money, sometimes to the point where you wonder why you should step up. Its winemaker, Australian David Baverstock, is a long time resident in Portugal who has assisted many prominent wineries in the Douro as well.Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843.
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