The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Grenache reveals an evolved character. Deep ruby-colored with a pink rim, it offers sweet strawberry jam-like notes along with kirsch in its fruit-driven, straightforward, but undeniably beguiling aromas. Fleshy, fat, and dense, with low acidity, it is a Chateauneuf du Pape fruit bomb. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importers: a Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620, Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173, and An Alain Corcia Selection, various American importers, including Charmer Industries, NY; tel. (718) 726-2500, Southern Wine and Spirits, CA; tel. (510) 487-3332, Premier Wines, CA; tel. (510) 237-6284, and Calvert-Woodley Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-4400