In the light, rain-plagued 1994 vintage, Jean-Pierre de Smet has performed admirably. The light, slightly diluted, medium ruby-colored 1994 Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots is already revealing some amber at the edge, but it comes across as soft, round, fruity, very Burgundian, but light and fluid. It needs to be drunk over the next several years.
Jean-Pierre de Smet of Domaine de l'Arlot produces silky, elegantly-styled red Burgundy that comes closest to resembling the wines of Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac, not surprising since Smet apprenticed in Dujac's cellars. His wines are deceptively (maybe I should say disturbingly) light ruby-colored, not dissimilar from 3-year old white Zinfandel. The color is misleading in terms of how much aromatic complexity, fruit, ripeness, and depth these wines possess.
Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 374-9415; fax (212) 925-6474
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