The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir comes from 0.50 hectares of vines planted in 1998, and for the first time it was entirely made in used barrels for 10 months. I remarked to Christian that I feel this cru lags behind the others, and he suggested that this is probably because of the much younger vine age. It has a very mineral-driven bouquet that is tightly wound at the moment. The palate is crisp on the entry with steely citrus fruit, racy acidity and a detailed, tense finish with a hint of apricot and peach on the aftertaste. This deserves two or three years in bottle, but it certainly has good potential. Drink 2016-2026.
Opposite the winery of William Fevre is Domaine Christian Moreau. Unusually, Christian owns more grand cru vines than premier or village cru, such is the way the family’s chips fell when the Moreau family’s holdings were split in 2002 between his cousins to form Louis and Christian Moreau. Everything here is harvested by hand – even the Petit Chablis. Christian told me that the 2013 vintage is the first to be certified organic, which is how his vines have been tended since 2005. Around 65% of the fruit is aged in stainless steel, the remainder in a combination of used barrels, around 10% new or 1-year-old. I must confess that I was relatively unfamiliar with Christian’s wines but I was mightily impressed. They showed great detail both aromatically and on the palate, expressing the nuances with style, perhaps with the one exception being the Vaudesir. Christian came across as a conscientious winemaker, aware of his enviable holdings but refreshingly down-to-earth and practical.
Importer: Frederic Wildman (US) and Thorman Hunt and Haynes, Hanson & Clarke (UK)
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