From a new parcel, the de Montille 2005 Corton Clos du Roi smells of nutmeg-dusted red cherries and strawberries as well as flowers and game. Notes of resin and tobacco join in on the well-concentrated, dense palate, leading to a finish with persistent sweetness of fruit, but rather brooding gamey, darkly herbal notes, chalky mineral suggestions, and a touch of heat. It would be best to revisit this in two or three years to get a better idea of the direction it might be headed. (I was not able to taste the de Montille 2005 Corton Pougets.)
Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040. Also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29
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