The 1999 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is a simply profound, unfurling in the glass with a deep and steely bouquet of lemon oil, pastry cream, mandarin, fresh peach, honeysuckle and wet stones. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with immense concentration and structure, tightly knit and focused in profile despite its considerable richness and texture, with racy acids and chewy extract that's beginning melt as it approaches its 19th birthday. While in their youth the d'Auvenay whites can be almost searingly structural, this wine exemplifies how suave and elegant they become with bottle age. Powerful but controlled, it represents the essence of Chevalier-Montrachet. Sadly, only 814 bottles were produced.
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