Tasted three weeks after bottling, Jobard’s 2007 Meursault Tillets is bright and refreshing to a degree not often encountered from Meursault, though with milled grain, toasted nut, and suggestively chalky elements typical for its genre. Citrus zest, fruit pit, and chew of pit fruit skin add to a sense of invigoration engendered by the wine’s refreshing citrus, and a dusty sense of stoniness provides a persistent undertone to a penetrating, energetic finish. This will certainly not be everyone’s idea of top-quality, in view of its relatively lean texture and treble range. I would anticipate its being worth following – watchfully – for at least 5-6 years. Antoine Jobard’s avowed upholding of his father’s “classic style” – enhanced by late bottling but with exclusively passive lees contact – extends to his preference for 2007 over the obviously richer, lower-acid 2005 and 2006 vintages, and his analogy with 2004 “except finer, less vegetal, and straighter” is born out by parallel tasting. While these 2007s display the brightness of acids, strong mineral cast, and energy that are hallmarks of 2007, few white Burgundy collections of the vintage were as tight and restrained last summer as was Jobard’s. He began picking already on September 3 and finished in only a week, in large part to guard acidity, although his must weights were already ample, and the finished wines – certain of which were lightly chaptalized – typically in the upper 12s in percent alcohol.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; also imported by Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
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