As was the case with the corresponding “Riesling Saint Catherine,” the Weinbach 2005 Pinot Gris Cuvee Laurence showcases the lower slopes of the Altenbourg but also parcels falling outside that cru. Musk, daffodil, peach and citrus zest on the nose lead to a rich and glossy but bright, and pungently smoky, citrus oil-inflected palate. This manages to combine power and ripeness with elegance, lift, and refinement of finish, to be voluminous but not heavy. With something over twenty grams of sugar it comes off as only subtly sweet, and there is not a trace of heat.The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different ottling might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802