A musky, exotic bouquet of peaches, white pepper, rose petals and spices introduces the 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon—as Fabien Moreau and I joked, "We could be in Alsace." On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and open-knit, with a tangy, saline finish. While it's exuberant on the nose, it remains quite restrained in the mouth.