Domaine Henri Gouges Clos des Porrets Monopole Blanc, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, France

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If readers want to have some fun at tastings, they should put the Nuits-St.-Georges Clos Des Porrets (White) in black colored glasses (so no one can see the color). With its deep aromas of minerals and stones and a red currant, raspberry, and crisp cherry-filled, medium-bodied personality, this wine will fool many a taster. Drink 1998-2008.This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The 1995s are the finest wines from this estate I have tasted, and I hope the progress continues.The Gouges cousins produce two whites from the famous "Henri Gouges Albino Pinot Noir" plants. The story has it that in the late 1940s Gouges discovered that some of his Pinot Noir vines were producing both red and white grapes. He took cuttings from the plants and propagated them. Today, the Gouges are not the only producers of wines from these mutant vines as they have generously provided cuttings to other interested vignerons (as was noted in Issue #110). Generally, according to the Gouges, these mutant Pinot Noir vines produce their best wines in years better suited for reds than whites. Moreover, they state that they age well and should be served at the same temperature as for a red wine. I have tasted every vintage going back to 1985 and agree that they age well but believe they are at their best when served cooler than reds but warmer than is the norm for whites. The Gouges said it best when they described their whites as "fascinating curiosities."Importer: Vineyard Brands, Chester, VT; tel. (802) 875-2139.