Jean Paul Brun Cote de Brouilly

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Like Brun’s other crus only three weeks in bottle when I tasted it, his 2010 Cote de Brouilly – around a third of which did time in his sole foudre and in older barriques – led with a provocatively pungent nose of smoky black tea, horseradish, quarry dust, and just-ripe blueberry and red raspberry. Bright and invigorating, it gushes with tart-edged fruit while delivering more than enough complexity to elicit head-scratching between sips. Sustained and saliva-inducing in its finishing flavors, it should remain a delight for at least the next several years. Brun seeks to assure me that a richer dimension will emerge once this has had a bit more time to rest post-bottling. Jean-Paul Brun and his Terres Dorees – for a bit more background on which, consult especially my report in issue 184 – continue to be the source of some of Beaujolais’s most exciting wines and best values. “I’m very content with my 2010s,” remarks Burn, but I suspect most lovers of Beaujolais will express their enthusiasm with less restraint. (Brun’s Pinot Noir, Chardonnay “Vinification Bourguignon,” and Roussanne were all still in the midst of their elevage when I visited with him and were not tasted.)Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191