Jean Paul Brun Cote de Brouilly

點擊次數：5251

The Brun 2008 Cote de Brouilly displays rather austerely tart black fruits and underlying stoniness, with fresh spinach, coffee, and walnut adding faintly bitter and vegetal notes. Somehow, the tartness here does not translate into really refreshing or clear finishing character. That said, there is certainly a concentration of some admirable elements and a sense of coiled spring energy. To be revisited. Jean-Paul Brun – like Pierre Chermette – made his reputation in Beaujolais the hard way (as if making a reputation anywhere in this region is easy!) by taking a vocal position on quality and crafting exemplary wines with the lowest regional classification, plain “Beaujolais,” from chalk-clay soils in the south. Only then was he able to acquire fruit and eventually properties in the northern, granite-based crus, a collection which now forms a quartet (whose performance in vintage 2007 I missed and Brun did not volunteer to re-stage this spring). Chalk clay soils in the south of Beaujolais distinguish not only the eponymous appellation but also explain the prevalence of Chardonnay – most bottled as Bourgogne Blanc rather than Beaujolais Blanc, and of which Brun’s is not only the best, but one I rate among the world’s handful of consistently finest Chardonnay values.Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191