Our tasting concluded with a stunning bottle of the 1961 Pommard 1er Cru Les Grands Epenots, a glorious old-school Pommard that's still in the prime of life. The wine unfurls with aromas of smoky red berries, cherries, candied peel, grilled ceps, potpourri and espresso roast, only gaining in liveliness and dimension as it sits in the glass. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with lovely fine-grained tannins that lend it the tonic quality the French call "digeste," underpinned by a bright line of acid. In keeping with the vintage, it's a muscular wine, but it isn't remotely austere.