The 2006 Meursault Charmes is one could say the “most Jobard,” and certainly the most “classic” and best wine of this year’s collection. Honey, toasted wheat, nut oils, fresh lemon, and very ripe Bosc pear mark its nose and imposingly seamless, silken-textured palate, and there is a lift and elegance, welcome hints of mineral and carnal mystery, and an entertaining sense of flavor interplay in the long finish. This should repay cellaring for a decade, perhaps longer. Sadly, Jobard is down to a mere four barrels of Charmes, and a portion of the 40 year-old vines that remain will have to be pulled before long, due to problematic (SO4) root stock.Remarkably, Antoine Jobard (who took over from his father in 2004) relates that he did not begin harvesting until the 23rd of September (two days later than in 2005), and while there is no negative botrytis tone in evidence, and he asserts that none of the wines exceeded 13.5% alcohol, this collection shows the effects of late harvest. Never bottled before 18 months (more often later, though not in the forward 2006 vintage) the Jobard wines were still in barrel when last I tasted them (hence the wider point spread). Every wine is given virtually identical elevage, including around 20% new wood; and none receive batonnage. “I’m guarding the classic style,” says Antoine Jobard, with reference to the wines that made his father’s long-standing reputation for refined, at times understated, and prodigiously age-worthy Meursault. The 2005s here took well over a year to ferment to dryness. Those I tasted from bottle easily eclipsed the corresponding 2006s. The Jobard 2004s are also very strong, and Antoine Jobard believes they will be for drinking after the 2005s (which in my estimation means well after the 2006s!)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; also imported by Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
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