The de Montille 2007 Corton-Charlemagne originates with 30 year old vines. (First estate-bottling of fruit originating in a neighboring portion of Corton Pougets that was grafted to Chardonnay from Pinot is not anticipated until the 2010 vintage.) Fresh apricot, grapefruit, tangerine, and hints of flowers and chalk dust in the nose carry onto a palate that manages to combine a surprising sense of viscosity, underlying mineral density, and subtle oiliness of texture with energy and refreshment. Bittersweet citrus rind adds to the sense of invigoration and grip in a palpably mineral finish that – perhaps not so surprising given its location on this grand cru massif – is almost red wine-like. "We feel confident that the terroir serves for a good sense of minerals," comments de Montille, "and now what we want to work on is the finesse, the lift." That aptly sums up this impressively-concentrated, muscular and sinewy wine which should be well worth revisiting over the course of at least the next 8-10 years.
Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29
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