The 2006 Volnay Caillerets no doubt reflects the accumulative effect of meticulous attention that the Lafarges indicate they are giving to these vines they began working in 2000. Lightly-cooked yet still juicy cherry fruit takes on a caramel edge but at the same time this is as overtly chalky and fruit pit-inflected as any wine in its collection. While relatively lean, this already intimates textural allure. The long finish projects a positive and energetic sense of tension rather than resolving the wine's contrasting characteristics. This should be fascinating for follow for 8-10 years, but I'd be inclined to wait several years before revisiting.
Frederic and Michel Lafarge are consistently adept in challenging vintages, and succeeded admirably in 2006, harvesting from September 20 until the end of that month. To hear them tell (as well as to taste the results) their fruit was largely healthy, and sorting was principally to remove under-ripe berries and clusters. Not surprisingly, they chalk this up to vine management. "Biodynamic treatments permit the vine to overcome the stress of weather extremes," such as characterized 2006, asserts Frederic Lafarge. Michel Lafarge points out that the same – to his mind ideal – 12.5-13+% potential alcohol was reached over the same period in premier cru and non-cru sites alike, a phenomenon due in part, he believes, to his estate's high average age of vine.
A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70
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