The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes unwinds in the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, plums, incense and smoked meats, framed by a generous application of spicy oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, muscular and structured, with a concentrated core of fruit, lively acids and fine but firm structuring tannins. While this is not austere to the point of causing concern, it certainly won't be approachable young. So, readers contemplating this Clos des Chênes should factor in a decade's patience.
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