From a site he says requires relatively early picking, George Duboeuf’s 2011 Fleurie Chateau des Deduits delivers ripe but brightly juicy (and in contrast with the corresponding Quatre Vents bottling, not at all jam-like) blueberry and black raspberry seasoned with cardamom and carob, and set-off against a background of stone. This really encourages the next sip, and based on its ex-cellar price represents outstanding value. I would plan to enjoy it through 2015.
I would not have expected any less an enthusiastic account of their 2011 vintage than was offered me by George and Franck Duboeuf, but more to the point, they poured me as consistently excellent and interesting a collection as I have ever experienced at this address. Potential alcohol levels came in almost entirely over 12% with only a few wines being chaptalized, and certainly none were in the least compromised by elevated alcohol. (Nor, I was told, did any acidification take place.) Early August heat spikes, opined George Duboeuf, furthered early maturation while avoiding either vine shut-down or prematurely excessive accumulation of sugar. Duboeuf thinks the differences from one site to another are especially pronounced this vintage, and cites its collection of Morgons in particular as “among the strongest I’ve had in years,” both observations entirely consistent with my experience. It is from a desire to showcase the natural purity of fruit that characterizes the 2011 vintage, says Duboeuf, that he elected to raise only one so-called cuvee speciale (i.e. one raised in barrique) this year, a Fleurie. (Bottlings not designated other than by their appellation represent what this house and the trade generally refer to as “flower label.”)
Importer: Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463
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