Michel and Frederic Lafarge told me that they spend as much time and effort on their two generic bottlings as on the village and premier crus - and it shows! Produced from vines over 50 years old (half Pinot Noir and half Gamay), the medium-ruby-colored Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grain is, along with Emmanuel Rouget's, Burgundy's best. Aromatically it reveals spicy blackberries and currants as well as an oily-textured, medium-bodied, earthy, and sweet cherry-filled character. This is an excellent value and should be drunk between now and 2000.As always, ratings with a score in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.A Becky Wasserman Selection, French Fax # 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers, including Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA; tel (415) 398-1200, Martin-Scott, Lake Success, NY; tel (516) 327-0808.
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