Verget Vaillons, Chablis Premier Cru, France

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Aromas of beeswax, crisp yellow orchard fruit, waxy citrus rind and bread dough introduce the 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, a medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny wine that's open and charming, concluding with a delicately saline finish. This will drink well young.

Aromas of lemon oil, crisp green apple, white flowers and oyster shell introduce the 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, a medium to full-bodied, ample wine that's nicely concentrated and structured, with good depth at the core and a stony finish.

Aromas of lemon oil, white flowers, peach pit and wet stones introduce the 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, a medium to full-bodied, elegantly glossy wine with lovely cut and chalky tension, concluding with a pure and stony finish. Hailing from vines in the lieu-dit of Minots, it's a lovely Chablis from Jean-Marie Guffens and his able team.

The 2013 Chablis Vaillons sees eight months aging on the fine lees. This 1er Cru has an attractive bouquet with touches of flint, white flower and linseed oil that opens nicely with aeration. The palate is crisp and vibrant on the entry, with a fine line of acidity, a pleasant fatness in the mouth with a fresh orange zest and spice-tinged finish. Good potential here and it opens nicely in the glass, improving with every minute.

The 2012 Chablis Vaillons does not quite have the vigor of the 2013 on the nose, though it is well-defined and linear. It just needs to say something more. The palate is balanced, with bruised apple and pear notes, but the finish is missing tension and mineralité, fading a little disappointingly.