Rudi Pichler Kollmutz Weissburgunder Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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Now there’s an awe-inspiring thought! Pichler’s 2010 Weissburgunder Smaragd Kollmutz mingles scents of clover, apple blossom, and corn shoots; then delivers a palate full of creamy, herb- and nut oil-laced sweet corn. Here is another instance in the present collection of richness allied to transparency to details, including subtly saline, smoky and stony mineral notes in a long, soothing, yet refreshing finish. The wine’s 14% alcohol serves for enhanced glycerin without engendering any roughness or heat; and a level of acidity high even by Riesling standards (“at first I thought the analysis must be in error,” notes Pichler) might be sublimated, but nonetheless clearly conveys underlying energy. I suspect this will keep well for at least 12-15 years. “Early on, we were concerned about the high acidity,” admits Rudi Pichler “but when we did the first analyses, still in September, they already showed a one-to-one ratio of tartaric to malic acid. And the rain was not a bad thing really, as it insured that the vines deposited enormous extract in the grapes. In the end, a small adjustment to the Riesling Federspiel as wine was the only de-acidification I did.” Pichler is a stickler for getting his wines to finish dry, and residual sugar was the last thing he said he could imagine benefiting his 2010s. “For us, leaving behind sugar just doesn’t work. The sugar and acidity stand in opposition to one another, and I just don’t like that sort of wine, it’s not harmonious” he insists. Anywhere from 36 hours to three days of pre-fermentative skin contact – about which Pichler is seldom shy – probably enhanced the sense of extract and wealth of flavors on display in this collection; and given what was apparently the unusually high ratio of tartaric to malic acidity in Pichler’s fruit he could afford losing as precipitant some extra measure of the former, which typically happens with extended maceration. “But you have to know which parts of your vineyards can support this treatment,” he adds. Long stays on the lees – also part of the usual regimen – were surely beneficial. It would be very hard to argue with the success one tastes here from 2010, a vintage in which Pichler harvested all the way up to November 23, and one that in all modesty he clearly considers (as do I) a personal triumph.Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2007 Weissburgunder Smaragd Kollmutz – harvested early November – is the wine Rudi Pichler thinks most typical of its vintage. Apple, pear, grapefruit, and hazelnut inform a rich, creamy, yet juicy, fresh-fruited palate, and saline, smoky notes add mineral interest that persists in to a long, soothing, yet refreshing finish. This will prove terrifically versatile at table over at least the next 5-7 years, and offers one more example of the outstanding potential in Austria of this unfortunately relatively neglected grape. Pichler’s 2007s differ very little in gross chemistry from his 2006s – including the high alcohol of several Gruner Veltliner – yet they have dramatically different personalities. Pichler compares them with his 1997s, and perhaps time in bottle will more clearly bear out that high praise. Rudi Pichler is a great believer in watchfully letting nature take its course and although some of his 2007s came in with pH levels many growers would consider alarmingly high he gave no thought to adjusting them, and the finished wines bear him out, displaying the vivacity and freshness typical of 2007.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Pichler says he elected to take a cautious approach with picking his 2006 Weissburgunder Smaragd Kollmutz, not believing that this variety can deal with high alcohol as easily as can Gruner Veltliner. As is, we are at 14% here, but the wine is elegant and light on its feet, with the slightly higher acidity vis a vis Gruner Veltliner making itself welcome. Raw hazelnut and white peach inform the nose and the juicy, refined, slightly oily-textured palate. Subtly stony mineral suggestions with faintly bitter apple pip, lime and grapefruit zest inform a satisfyingly long, heat-free finish. This is lovely to drink now, but may prove truly ravishing if one gives it 5-7 years in the cellar. Rudi Pichler picked and vinified with his usual sensitivity, thereby achieving a surprisingly broad stylistic range, even though the total length of harvest was unusually short. Flowering here just escaped the period of intense June heat that led to a reduced crop at most Wachau addresses.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2005 Weissburgunder Smaragd Kollmutz represents another instance, Pichler explains, where culling out botrytis was key to achieving rich yet smooth and clear-fruited results. Aromas of raw hazelnut and a hint of resinous herbs and lemon zest lead to a palate rich in apply fruit, creamy in texture, yet stony in its underlying expression of minerality. The finish is restrained yet pure and long, with the mineral element dominant. This will be a superb wine to explore at the dinner table, and should be worth following for at least 8-10 years. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($23.00; 85)Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Perfumed talcum powder is found in the aromatics of the 2000 Weissburgunder Smaragd Kollmutz. This light to medium-bodied and lively wine reveals minerals, pears, and metallic shavings in its fresh, pretty character. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700