The 2005 Weissburgunder Smaragd Kollmutz represents another instance, Pichler explains, where culling out botrytis was key to achieving rich yet smooth and clear-fruited results. Aromas of raw hazelnut and a hint of resinous herbs and lemon zest lead to a palate rich in apply fruit, creamy in texture, yet stony in its underlying expression of minerality. The finish is restrained yet pure and long, with the mineral element dominant. This will be a superb wine to explore at the dinner table, and should be worth following for at least 8-10 years. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($23.00; 85)Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700
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