Rudi Pichler Kirchweg Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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Apricot, yellow cherry and fresh lime dominate Pichler’s 2010 Riesling Smaragd Kirchweg, with pungent overtones of Latakia tobacco and piquancy of apricot kernel as well as a subtle range of mineral shadings serving for fascinating complexity. There is less overt impression of density and minerality than in the corresponding Steinriegl, with a surprising sense of buoyancy for a Smaragd and a finish of formidable length yet elegant understatement. Look for 8-10 years of delightful intrigue. “Early on, we were concerned about the high acidity,” admits Rudi Pichler “but when we did the first analyses, still in September, they already showed a one-to-one ratio of tartaric to malic acid. And the rain was not a bad thing really, as it insured that the vines deposited enormous extract in the grapes. In the end, a small adjustment to the Riesling Federspiel as wine was the only de-acidification I did.” Pichler is a stickler for getting his wines to finish dry, and residual sugar was the last thing he said he could imagine benefiting his 2010s. “For us, leaving behind sugar just doesn’t work. The sugar and acidity stand in opposition to one another, and I just don’t like that sort of wine, it’s not harmonious” he insists. Anywhere from 36 hours to three days of pre-fermentative skin contact – about which Pichler is seldom shy – probably enhanced the sense of extract and wealth of flavors on display in this collection; and given what was apparently the unusually high ratio of tartaric to malic acidity in Pichler’s fruit he could afford losing as precipitant some extra measure of the former, which typically happens with extended maceration. “But you have to know which parts of your vineyards can support this treatment,” he adds. Long stays on the lees – also part of the usual regimen – were surely beneficial. It would be very hard to argue with the success one tastes here from 2010, a vintage in which Pichler harvested all the way up to November 23, and one that in all modesty he clearly considers (as do I) a personal triumph.Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Pineapple and orange zest start this compelling wine. It has great tight acidity, as crisp as possible, with a yellow mineral structure that has extreme youth. ——R.V.(10/1/2010)—— 91

Whereas his Steinriegel Riesling was picked at one time, it took several passes, says Pichler, to optimize the fruit for his 2007 Riesling Smaragd Kirchweg. The result combines some of the mineral-broth aspect of Chablis with the shimmering sense of mineral, citrus, and pit fruit exchange that only Riesling can achieve. Pungent lime zest, herbs, brown spices, and white pepper inform the finish. There is cooling refreshment but also a tartness about this that some tasters will no doubt prefer to see resolved. Whether time in bottle will have that effect I am unsure. But this stimulating wine will certainly offer interesting table service over at least the next 4-5 years. Pichler’s 2007s differ very little in gross chemistry from his 2006s – including the high alcohol of several Gruner Veltliner – yet they have dramatically different personalities. Pichler compares them with his 1997s, and perhaps time in bottle will more clearly bear out that high praise. Rudi Pichler is a great believer in watchfully letting nature take its course and although some of his 2007s came in with pH levels many growers would consider alarmingly high he gave no thought to adjusting them, and the finished wines bear him out, displaying the vivacity and freshness typical of 2007.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

A 2004 Riesling Smaragd Kirchweg smells of grapefruit and honey and is full-bodied and luscious yet bright, as well as silky and polished in texture on the palate. Suggestions of nut oils and wet stone ally themselves with the citrus, honey and stones in the finish. More than a third of the fruit in Kirchweg, says Pichler, had to be culled out on account of negative botrytis, which may account for the rather static, yet imposingly rich character of the wine from those bunches that made the grade. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700