Rudi Pichler Kirchweg Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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A 2004 Riesling Smaragd Kirchweg smells of grapefruit and honey and is full-bodied and luscious yet bright, as well as silky and polished in texture on the palate. Suggestions of nut oils and wet stone ally themselves with the citrus, honey and stones in the finish. More than a third of the fruit in Kirchweg, says Pichler, had to be culled out on account of negative botrytis, which may account for the rather static, yet imposingly rich character of the wine from those bunches that made the grade. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700