Whereas his Steinriegel Riesling was picked at one time, it took several passes, says Pichler, to optimize the fruit for his 2007 Riesling Smaragd Kirchweg. The result combines some of the mineral-broth aspect of Chablis with the shimmering sense of mineral, citrus, and pit fruit exchange that only Riesling can achieve. Pungent lime zest, herbs, brown spices, and white pepper inform the finish. There is cooling refreshment but also a tartness about this that some tasters will no doubt prefer to see resolved. Whether time in bottle will have that effect I am unsure. But this stimulating wine will certainly offer interesting table service over at least the next 4-5 years. Pichler’s 2007s differ very little in gross chemistry from his 2006s – including the high alcohol of several Gruner Veltliner – yet they have dramatically different personalities. Pichler compares them with his 1997s, and perhaps time in bottle will more clearly bear out that high praise. Rudi Pichler is a great believer in watchfully letting nature take its course and although some of his 2007s came in with pH levels many growers would consider alarmingly high he gave no thought to adjusting them, and the finished wines bear him out, displaying the vivacity and freshness typical of 2007.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700