Remoissenet Pere & Fils Les Folatieres, Puligny Montrachet Premier Cru, France

雷穆父子弗拉迪埃（普里尼-蒙哈榭一級園）白葡萄酒

點擊次數：3407

Fresh citrus and briny, alkaline mineral suggestions scent Remoissenet's 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres. Palpably dense, this delivers its mineral message in a rather opaque form for the vintage, and its sense of citrus and peach fruit is correspondingly thick and rich. Notes of vanilla and butter cream are not entirely integrated into the fresh fruit context and the citrus is – for now at least – not accompanied by refreshment. That said, the sedate finish here is certainly soothing and impressively long. I would be inclined to plan on drinking this within the next 4-5 years. The well-known if not always entirely venerable house of Remoissenet began a new life in 2005 when it was purchased by investors and wine lovers Edward and Howard Milstein of New York; merchant Todd Halpern of Toronto; and (with a minority share) Louis Jadot. The new owners installed Jadot veteran Bernard Repot as manager and Claudie Jobard as winemaker to oversee less a renovation of the facilities than the establishment from scratch of a new winery. With one major exception (Le Montrachet) the revived Remoissenet has depended on establishing new sources of supply, a project that – along with marketing – is being spearheaded by long-time Wine Advocate associate Pierre-Antoine Rovani. The emphasis will be on contract fruit or must – although Remoissenet still owns acreage of Pinot Noir vines in and around Beaune – and then very selectively. Remoissenet's substantial share of Montrachet alone offers them a unique opportunity not only to bargain with growers, but to establish a high market profile, and the quality of 2007s here – following on the heels of an impressively rich if occasionally overly woody and ponderous collection of 2006s – confirms this as a negociant to be reckoned with. The barrels used here, incidentally, are now split between 350 liter capacity and standard 225 liter barriques. Importers include The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460, Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392-6995.

A very complete wine, impressively crisp, fresh and at the same time rich. There is a spice element that lifts and adds complexity to the green fruits, apples and juicy plums. And then the tense structure kicks in, giving a smoky, mineral aftertaste. ——R.V.(10/1/2008)—— 93

Intense and concentrated, this epitomizes the richness of 2005. The wine starts soft, with more spice than fruit, then flavors of peach and quince come through, followed by an almost tropical element. The intensity stays right through the finish of this impressive, powerful wine.——R.V.(8/1/2008)—— 93

Remoissenet enjoys a well-deserved reputation for his white wines. There is a tendency at this estate to block the malolactic, keep the wines off their lees, rack them frequently, and bottle them after a relatively vigorous filtration. The fact that so much remains in the wines makes one wonder what they would be like if they were not manipulated so much? The 1992s all reveal ripe fruit, higher acidity than most white burgundies (remember, the malolactic was blocked), and laudable purity. The quality jumps with the excellent 1992 Puligny-Montrachet-Les Folatieres, a deep, luscious, medium to full-bodied wine with loads of fruit, a lovely mineral, floral, and honey-scented nose, and excellent length. It should drink well for 10-12 years. Importer: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA and Stacole, Inc., Boca Raton, FL.