Remoissenet Pere & Fils Puligny-Montrachet, Cote de Beaune, France

雷穆父子酒莊（普里尼-蒙哈榭）白葡萄酒

點擊次數：4505

The 2015 Puligny Montrachet has an attractive fresh green apple and lime scented bouquet that is pure, if missing a little mineralité. The palate is fresh and lively on the entry with red apples, a touch of orange zest and a composed finish. Drink this over the next four or five years.

The 2014 Puligny Montrachet Villages did not quite "sing" on the nose as much as the Meursault or the Beaune Saint Désiré when I tasted it. The palate is well balanced with subtle tropical notes on the entry -- guava and dried pineapple, gently unfolding to a lightly spiced, saline finish. Not bad, though I suspect the Meursault Villages will have the upper hand after bottling.

The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet Village, which comes from purchased must, has a slightly reduced bouquet that needs to muster a little more vigour. The palate is fresh on the entry with bitter lemon and green apple, simple but balanced with a cohesive peach-tinged finish. Fine.

The 2012 Puligny-Montrachet Village has a forward and open bouquet with scents of peach and dried apricot – very pretty and a real crowd-pleaser. The palate is quite phenolic on the entry with a lot of extract and it needs more tension on the finish, but I can see the commercial appeal this will have. You may have heard of Pierre-Antoine Rovani. One of Burgundy’s most shy and retiring members, he was his usual taciturn self, uttering all but one or two words during my Sunday afternoon tasting of 2012s in Remoissenet’s 14th century cellars, just off the Beaune peripherique. You know the story here: the name reborn in 2005 when outside investors prompted a Damascene resurrection of what had fundamentally been an also-ran bottling operation, into a quality-driven concern and vinifying wines themselves. Their policy is to buy at premium in order to acquire the best fruit, except for the 2.5-hectare of vineyard that they own themselves. With general manager and former Louis Jadot president Bernard Repolt, winemaker Claudine Jobard and chef de culture Fred Le Prince (a wonderful name that sounds like a lost bassist from Funkadelic), this has been one of the region’s recent success stories. They recently purchased the cuverie at Chateau de Chorey to make the Bourgogne Rouge and Givry Village. They use “342s” as Pierre Antoine referred to them i.e. 342-litre barrels casks for vinifying most of their wines. They have a large portfolio of both domaine and negociant wines that I tasted at a leisurely pace on a Sunday afternoon. And I must say, I was impressed by their 2012s. Sure, not everything hits the spot with such a comprehensive and diverse array of wines, but the fact is that many crus showed very well. As Rovani mentioned, there is a gap in the market for affordable Burgundy, one that will surely expand as the top names become prohibitively expensive for mere mortals. That is where Remoissenet can fit in and having overhauled their reds, it sounds as if they will be working on ameliorating their whites in future years, not that they are anything to be ashamed of now. Hey, and you know what? Even Pierre-Antoine was beginning to lose his inhibition and comes out of his shell by the end of the tasting. Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515, United Wine and Spirits, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 696-9463, D.G.L. Distributors, Northbrook, IL; tel. (847) 291- 1110, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460. Also available through Avery’s Wine Merchants in Bristol (UK).

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet is terrific at its level. Nothing in particular really stands out; rather, this is a village wine that impresses for its exceptional overall balance. Layered and rich, the Puligny shows off gorgeous depth and an expressive personality that is impossible to resist. An attractive overtone of sweet spice frames the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. I was very impressed with the 2010 whites I tasted at Remoissenet this year. While most of the top wines are terrific, personally I find just as much pleasure in the many delicious offerings from humbler appellations in this extensive range. Remoissenet purchases fruit and/or wines for many of their offerings. I would not be surprised if there is less competition for the fruit/wines from those less prestigious appellations, which makes it easier to source top quality raw materials. As always, Remoissenet strives for a style built on full phenolic ripeness and harvests that are on the late side relative to most estates. My favorite wines are those where the richness of the fruit is accompanied by complementary minerality and vibrancy. I also tasted a handful of reds from Remoissenet’s Cellar Collection. These are wines that have been cellared in Remoissenet’s cellars for several decades. Prior to being re-released, the wines are decanted to remove sediment, topped up and sealed with a new cork. Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515, United Wine and Spirits, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 696-9463, D.G.L. Distributors, Northbrook, IL; tel. (847) 291- 1110, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460