Patrick Piuze Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru, France

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The 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is a deep and powerful wine, evocative of orange oil, ripe pear, white flowers, freshly baked bread and nutmeg. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, it's broad-shouldered and concentrated, with lively acids and a long, mandarin-inflected finish.

Youthfully reserved aromas of citrus zest, mint, wet stones and white flowers introduce the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, a full-bodied, taut and chiseled wine that's concentrated and penetrating, concluding with a mineral finish. At this early stage, it's one of the most reserved wines in the range and it will demand some patience.

Piuze told me that his 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos had become atypically aromatic during its élevage, and that it was only just now beginning to shut down. So, I prefer to offer only a bracketed score for this full-bodied, broad and voluptuous wine that's evocative of musky peach and honeycomb. I'll be tasting it again next year.

The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos was reserved and reductive when I tasted it—the least extroverted of all the wines in Piuze's cellar, as is often the case with Les Clos. Notes of lemon oil, crisp peach and iodine mingling with smoky, leesy nuances introduce a full-bodied, deep and promising wine that is less monolithic than the Valmur but no less powerful. It's really too early to get a clear read on this, but its potential, at least, is clear.

When I tasted the 2016 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos it had not yet been bottled. It has a gorgeous honey, nutmeg and oyster shell-scented bouquet that is very harmonious and intense. The palate is well balanced with a slightly honeyed texture, smooth and creamy with the acidity kicking in toward the finish to keep everything balanced. This is a classy, seductive les Clos that should mature with panache.