The best of the three red wines from Leflaive is the excellent 1990 Volnay-Clos de la Barre. The deep ruby color is followed by an earthy, black-cherry, and herb-scented nose, excellent concentration, moderate tannins, crisp acidity, and a fine finish. It needs another 1-2 years of cellaring but should last for 10-12. In the past I have found the wines of Olivier Leflaive to be straightforward and commercial in orientation. I was impressed with their 1990 white burgundies (to be reviewed next year). I also enjoyed the three red wines I tasted from this producer. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Co., New York, NY.
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