Louis Jadot Les Grand Epenots, Pommard Premier Cru, France

路易亞都酒莊大埃佩諾（玻瑪一級園）紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：501

Notes of sweet spices, wild berries, licorice, loamy soil and smoke introduce the 2020 Pommard 1er Cru Les Grand Epenots (Maison Louis Jadot), a medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy wine, with a deep core of fruit and plenty of chewy tannin.

The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Les Grand Epenots (Maison Louis Jadot) was showing very well indeed, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet cherries, wild berries, exotic spices and sapid bass notes of coffee roast and grilled game. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and succulent, its broad-shouldered but fine-grained chassis of tannin nicely cloaked in generous fruit, its finish pure and long.

The 2010 Pommard Grands Epenots flows across the palate with layers of expressive red fruit. It shows lovely depth and volume in a fairly understated style for Pommard. High-toned floral notes add lift on the silky polished finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. I tasted an amazing range of 2010 reds at Jadot with long-term winemaker Jacques Lardiere and his successor Frederic Barnier. In order to make this large section of the report easier to read, I have broken up the wines into the Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits. Lardiere and Barnier told me they were quite worried about the prospects for the harvest upon their return from summer vacations in August, but the year was saved by a perfect September. Yields are down 25-50% because of the frost and cold weather earlier in the year, but overall quality is very high. Lardiere and Barnier also noted that early on it appeared that there would be a wide gap in quality between the Cote de Beaune and the Cote de Nuits, but over time that gap narrowed to some extent. Still, there is little question the vintage was more challenging in the Cote de Beaune because of a rainier summer and overall higher precipitation throughout the year. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

Like the corresponding Clos de la Commaraine, Jadot's 2006 Pommard Grands Epenots displays unusual energy and brightness for a Pommard as well as a deep, smoky, ferrous pungency. But here there is deep, marrowy richness and a more overt sense of extract and tannic structure, even though it is allied to lift and dynamic. This is a wine that will offer you something to chew on in both senses of that word over the next 6-8 years. Jacques Lardiere testifies that while there was more widespread rot of Pinot Noir in 2007 than in 2006, the latter was more insidious and challenging as it was less evident on the surface of the berries, and often hidden within the grape clusters. That said, he confirmed the observation of many other growers that sorting out under-ripe berries was at least as formidable a task as removing rot. The results here this year speak to the success of Jadot's rigor, and even from the Cote de Beaune there are many wines in this collection that in their sometimes understated, but also often texturally more refined way have nothing to fear from comparison with the 2005s at a similar state. (At ten years of age, it will no doubt be a different matter.) Lardiere claims that the beneficial effects of biodynamic procedures are being felt now in certain wines from vineyards where he began employing them after being impressed by what he took to be their healing efficacy in the aftermath of 2004 hail. No other vintage, he says, comes to mind that compares with this one for its combination of refinement and complexity with youthful accessibility. When pressed, he hazards some comparison to 2000 and 2001, but adds that the best 2006s are better. That their importer has long owned the controlling interest in Jadot may permit them unusual flexibility in pricing for the American market. What's certain is that the suggested retails publicized for their 2006s - most, slightly beneath those of the 2005 vintage - look remarkably low when compared with those reached in the last several years by other top Burgundy producers. A Jadot grand- or premier cru bottling is often priced like other growers' respective premier crus and village wines, rendering this enormous operation a source not only of continued consistently high quality and frequent distinction, but also of rare good value in red Burgundy. (There are several different domaine distinctions for Jadot wines, and of course some - albeit a diminishing number - are based on or incorporate contract fruit or purchased juice. But since the labels all display an easily recognized common Jadot identity, and since Jadot often exercises tight control over or enjoys very long-standing contracts on fruit that informs their negociant business, I have not noted these distinctions as part of each wine's description, but only occasionally - if deemed especially relevant - in the text of my tasting note.) Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490-9300

The nose of the 2005 Pommard Grands Epenots is high-toned and bitter-sweet in its suggestion of ripe red fruits and herbs. Spine-tingling in its concentration and brightness on entry, it is slightly metallic as well as brightly red-fruited and pungently herbal in its concentrated, slightly hard finish. This is in need of a racking and should in short order express itself in a more ingratiating way. Jacques Lardiere has once again presided over a collection for the most part not intended to flatter in its youth, but rather to achieve an eventual balance of fruit acidity with (in this instance frequently quite prominent) tannin. Prolonged post-fermentative extraction promoted a formidably-structured group of wines, which Lardiere expressed no hurry about bottling. Certain of these – particularly from the Cote de Beaune – displayed a slightly drying finishing astringency or simply an austere lack of charm to match their concentration, traits Lardiere suggested might be traceable to drought stress in those sites. A brief July rain that reached the Cote de Nuits but not the Cote de Beaune was critical, he asserts, and all of Jadot’s vines in the northern Cote were picked before the harvest in the south commenced. (Wines from the Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Heritiers Louis Jadot, or Domaine Gagey, have been identified with a letter “D” in their listings.) Also recommended: 2005 Cote de Nuits-Villages Le Vaucrain ($25.00;86+?), 2005 Santenay Clos de Malte ($27.00; 85-87), 2005 Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Guettes (84-86+?), 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges ($37.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Chambolle-Musigny ($50.00; 85-87+?). Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300