La Chablisienne Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru, France

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Unwinding in the glass with aromas of waxy lemon rind, mandarin, dried white flowers, fresh pastry and a subtle top note of petrol, the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is full-bodied, ample and layered, with a deep and concentrated core, lively acids and a saline finish. This, too, is very reserved, but it's undeniably a promising Les Clos.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is excellent, wafting from the glass with notes of lemon, mandarin and pastry cream. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, chewy and structured, with impressive concentration and depth, concluding with a bright, stony finish.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos has a composed, flinty bouquet that is nicely focused, understated for now but sure to mature well. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, harmonious with subtle white peach and candied orange peel notes tucked underneath the mineral veneer. With splendid length and cohesion, this is a marvelous Les Clos that should age for several years and then continue to give pleasure over 15-20 years.

The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos has a very well-defined, mineral-driven, chalky bouquet that takes you straight to the chalky slopes in Chablis. It is more subtle than its peers, but just as captivating. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with crisp acidity, fine tension from start to finish, leading to what is an elegant and poised finish. This is a very well-crafted Les Clos.

The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos comes from half a hectare of vine cropped at 45 hectoliters per hectare and spends 20 months in stainless steel and wooden barrels. It has a strident bouquet that comes at you with lemon curd, dried pineapple, beeswax and coconut, although perhaps it seems a little obvious compared to its peers. The palate is ripe and rounded on the entry. This is a very gras Les Clos with a ripe, tropical-tinged finish, although it does not have the pedigree of other grand crus. Drink now-2019. La Chablisienne is one of Chablis’ most high-profile cooperatives and a great success story. Founded back in 1923 and still going strong, it is said that they oversee approximately one-quarter of the region’s production, around 300 individual growers. Therefore, just like Georges Duboeuf in Beaujolais or Louis Jadot in the Cote d’Or, it is important that they maintain standards irrespective of high volumes, since their size ensures that they have an ambassadorial role for Chablis, for ordinary punters perhaps seeking to broaden their horizons. In this respect, the wines should not be looked down upon given the showing here. While none of them reached the heady heights of Chablis’ most revered artisans, there was certainly a consistency across the range that when coupled with the volume produced, deserves to be applauded. Importers: Ruby Wines (MA), Opici Wines (NY), Grape Expectations (CA), Brescome Barton (CT)