Unwinding in the glass with aromas of waxy lemon rind, mandarin, dried white flowers, fresh pastry and a subtle top note of petrol, the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is full-bodied, ample and layered, with a deep and concentrated core, lively acids and a saline finish. This, too, is very reserved, but it's undeniably a promising Les Clos.