Georges Duboeuf Flower Label Fut de Chene, Moulin-a-Vent, France

杜寶夫酒莊花標簽紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：2751

The Duboeufs’ 2010 Moulin-a-Vent Fut de Chene is as usual drawn from what they feel are some of their most promising vineyards sources, with the barriques of assorted origins and ages being delivered to the participating vignerons for elevage. I still struggle to find much virtue in the volatility and the rather pasted-on sense of resin, lanolin, and mocha that toasted wood conveys here to a manifestly ripe abundance of dark berries; or (especially) in the tendency for that wood to dry-out that fruit in this cuvee’s finish. All that said, we have here undeniably concentrated, brown-spiced blackberry and cassis that convey mid-palate sap and bittersweet persistence. I advise monitoring carefully if you are tempted to cellar any even for 2-3 years. (Like the corresponding Carquelins, it wasn’t expected to be bottled until September.)George Duboeuf and his estate-collaborators – for further general comments on whom consult my issue 190 report – harvested from mid-September into the first week of October and pronounced themselves reasonably satisfied with the size of their crop as well as its quality. Most of the fruit came in at between 12-12.5% alcohol, with only a small share being chaptalized. And while the manner of extraction typically practiced chez Duboeuf strikes me as serving for rather uniformly deep colors, Duboeuf remarked that the 2010s colored with particular, and surprising, ease. The percentage of wines bottled at the time of my June visit was, predictably, considerably higher than had been the case for the 2009s at the same point on the calendar. Observing conventions established in the aforementioned previous report, I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be worth following for longer than a couple of years, and where I have identified a wine solely by appellation, it represents a so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvee, adorned with his company’s signature flower labels. I also tasted on this occasion several late-released, wooded “prestige” bottlings – rendered in 1,000-2,500 volumes – which however were not destined to appear in U.S. markets.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Duboeuf’s 2009 Moulin-a-Vent Fut de Chene displays some of the same slightly negative synergy of strong fruit extraction and oak (perhaps also, in this instance, alcohol) that resulted in roughness here and there among other of their 2009s from this appellation. That said, nobody is going to fault this on sheer grip or concentration, and the wine is loaded with ripe black fruits displaying real cut and energy. Hints of resin and the leafy side of cassis reflect a slightly reduced state at present, and it will be interesting to revisit after bottling, which is was not anticipated until September.The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Rich, deep and complex aromas of black fruits are found in the nose of the 2003 Moulin-a-Vent Elevee en Fut de Chene. Hugely concentrated, intense, and medium to full-bodied, it reveals a satin-textured core of plums, black cherries, violets, black raspberries, and blackberries. This structured, rich, sappy wine was tasted blind with my tasting group (The Wine Nerds), which includes serious collectors and wine professionals. Readers who remain skeptical about the 2003s should know that not a single member of the group guessed Beaujolais, believing it was a top-flight Hermitage or Burgundy. Bravo!Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121

Importers are William Deutsche and Sons Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463, and Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121; fax (847) 679-2017.

The Moulin a Vent Fut de Chene possesses a deeply saturated, dark ruby/purple color, powerful, a vanillin, bacon fat, and jammy black-cherry-scented nose, full-bodied, intense flavors, superb concentration, enough underlying acidity for clarity, and a formidably powerful finish. It should drink well for 5-10+ years.Georges Duboeuf's wines are represented on the East Coast by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd., Armonk, NY; tel. (914) 273-1221, fax (914) 273-1291, and on the West Coast by Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL,; tel (708) 679-0121, fax (708) 679-2017.