Duboeuf’s 2009 Moulin-a-Vent Fut de Chene displays some of the same slightly negative synergy of strong fruit extraction and oak (perhaps also, in this instance, alcohol) that resulted in roughness here and there among other of their 2009s from this appellation. That said, nobody is going to fault this on sheer grip or concentration, and the wine is loaded with ripe black fruits displaying real cut and energy. Hints of resin and the leafy side of cassis reflect a slightly reduced state at present, and it will be interesting to revisit after bottling, which is was not anticipated until September.The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463
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