Weingut Emmerich Knoll 'Vinothekfullung' Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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Consisting largely of fruit harvested in mid-November from Loibenberg, the Knoll 2010 Riesling Smaragd Vinothekfullung loaded with succulently ripe fig and white peach; glazed with quince preserves; mingled with smoky dark tobacco; and suffused with invigoratingly peppery mineral impingement and saliva-drawing salinity. This is an example of leaving behind close to the limit (for Smaragd) in residual sugar and thereby enhancing the lusciously ripe aspects of a 2010 without engendering any conflict with the wine’s quickening acidity. The expansive, persistent finish practically glows, with pepper, tobacco, brown spices, and black tea adding depth and counterpoint to its rich fruit. I’d plan on following it for a dozen, or perhaps more years.“Warmth and wind at the end of October gave Smaragd the extra push, especially for Gruner Veltliner,” notes Emmerich Knoll Senior, and his estate did not begin picking that category until the first week in November. “Up until then, it pretty much counted as settled that we wouldn’t bottle a 2010 Vinothek in either Riesling or Gruner Veltliner, which in fact we did. But I can’t recall when the Smaragd ever had acid levels identical to the Federspiel as happened this year. Not that I’m unhappy about this,” he adds with a laugh. “There have been and will be quite a few vintages in which we would be happy for some of 2010’s acidity.” A portion of the Riesling Federspiel crop was de-acidified as must. Total production was only around half of what Knoll considers normal. None of the Smaragd – collectively, almost unbelievably, representing the heart of one of the finest Knoll collections in memory – was not due to have been bottled until late this summer.Importer: Circo Vino Besenville, IL; tel. (417) 732 4200

Featuring fruit from the Loibenberg, with small contributions from Schutt and Kellerberg, the Knolls’ 2007 Riesling Smaragd Vinothekfullung is dominated by ripe peach with pungent brown spices and white pepper. A rich, savory mineral and meat note wells up, a bit Chablis-like, amid its glossy and opulent palate display, and it finishes with considerable force, if also a touch of heat from its roughly 14% alcohol. I simply have not yet been convinced (but much more tasting is necessary, as my experience is largely with mature Loibenberg and Schutt bottlings) that the increase in richness and size encountered with this and many other Knoll Vinothek bottlings is truly conducive to more appropriately cellaring the wine, let alone to its being longer-lived. I would favor planning to drink this big boy over the next 5-7 years. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2005 Riesling Smaragd Vinothekfullung originates largely in one particularly ripe parcel of Loibenberg. There is some botrytis in play, and for the first time we cross the 14% alcohol threshold, despite the wine having eight grams of residual sugar. Scents of caramelized peach, brown spices, and ester-filled pear distillate lead to a glossy, rich, honeyed palate impression with spice and pungency clearly attributable to botrytis. Enveloping, creamy richness and sheer extract hold in check or cover over any tendency to botrytis induced bitterness or alcoholic heat that this wine might otherwise display. But it is to botrytis as well that I would ascribe a slight cutting off of the finish. This is opulent as far as it goes, but not complete. Could it simply be in a funk? Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700